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Improves readability

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This commit is contained in:
Sander Soots
2022-09-13 14:33:45 +03:00
parent f492cd6eff
commit 9daaac90cf
5 changed files with 52 additions and 42 deletions
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2
Manuals/MCU_Firmware/Readme.md
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@@ -84,7 +84,7 @@ If the flash was successful, this should now show a klipper device, similar to:
You will need to write that serial down and use it in printer.cfg as this is your device specific ID! You should power down the printer and connect display cables to Spyder now.
### Next: [Klipper configuration](../MCU_Firmware/Readme.md)
### Next: [Klipper configuration](../Klipper/Readme.md)
---
### Back: [Manuals](../Readme.md)

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Manuals/Readme.md
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## INSTRUCTIONS
First up, assembly. We have produced modified Manual that should make assembly easy. Please read the manual through the first time before starting your assembly as it will make understanding the relations between objects much more easier. All heat inserts are done so those steps are for you to just verify that all of them are inserted. Should there be any missing, you have tooltip and nerlings to add finishing touches.
First up, assembly. We have produced modified Manual that should make assembly easy. Please read the manual through the first time before starting your assembly as it will make understanding the relations between objects much more easier. All heat inserts are done so those steps are for you to just verify that all of them are inserted. Should there be any missing, you have tooltip and inserts to add finishing touches.
* [Assembly Manual Voron V2.4R2 Lecktor Kit](AssemblyManual.pdf)
You should keep always your devices behind VPN for additional security. That being said, Fluidd supports user accounts while MainsailOS is wide open in your home network. Both are amazing lightweight tools to handle your Voron and since they are simple frontends for configuration, you can easily swap between them.
* [MainsailOS Installation](./OperatingSoftware/MainsailOs.md)
* [Fuidd Installation](./OperatingSoftware/Fluidd.md)
* [MainsailOS Installation](./OperatingSoftware/MainsailOs.md) / [Fuidd Installation](./OperatingSoftware/Fluidd.md)
* [Slicer Configuration Files](./Slicer)
* [Fysetc Spider V2.2 Firmware Image, Flash](./MCU_Firmware/Readme.md)
* [Klipper Configuration](./Klipper/Readme.md)
* [Klipper Configuration](./Klipper)
* [Testing Configuration](./Testing/Readme.md)
* [Tuning the printer](./Tuning/Readme.md)

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Manuals/Slicer/Readme.md Normal file
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# Notes about slicer
1. You need to adjust slicer profile per material you are using
2. If you are not using 350mm bed, adjust bed size.
3. If you are using different nozzle, then adjust it's size.
4. We recommend using [SuperSlicer](https://github.com/supermerill/SuperSlicer) for Voron Printers.

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Manuals/Testing/Readme.md
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# Testing your work
1. Go to your printer management gui on web.
2. Turn on heater for extruder and set it to 50C. Wait for it to reach temp. Once temp is reached and it's not climbing past it, turn it off and wait for temp to go down.
3. Turn on heater for bed and set it to 50C. Wait for it to reach temp. Once temp is reached and it's not climbing past it, turn it off and wait for temp to go down.
4. Next up we want to test motors
1. STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_x <- this causes print head to move to right 1mm and then back 1mm ten times
2. STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_y <- this causes print head to move to left 1mm and then back 1mm ten times
3. STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_z <- this is the front left corner
4. STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_z1 <- the back left corner
5. STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_z2 <- the back right corner
6. STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_z3 <- the front right corner
7. STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=extruder <- the print head gears
2. Turn on heater for extruder and set it to ***50C***. Wait for it to reach temp. Once temp is reached and it's not climbing past it, turn it off and wait for temp to go down.
3. Turn on heater for bed and set it to ***50C***. Wait for it to reach temp. Once temp is reached and it's not climbing past it, turn it off and wait for temp to go down.
4. Next up we want to test motors, for that run command:
1. **STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_x** <- this causes print head to move to right 1mm and then back 1mm ten times
2. **STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_y** <- this causes print head to move to left 1mm and then back 1mm ten times
3. **STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_z** <- this is the front left corner
4. **STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_z1** <- the back left corner
5. **STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_z2** <- the back right corner
6. **STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_z3** <- the front right corner
7. **STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=extruder** <- the print head gears
5. Next up testing the end stops. Put print head in the centre of the printer.
1. Go to Machine, refresh endstop statuses
2. Hold down the X endstop switch, press refresh on endstop statuses
@@ -17,38 +17,38 @@
2. Repeat steps for Y and Z endstop.
3. Take a metal object (e.g. Caliper) and place it under the Omron proximity sensor. Press refresh on endstop statuses, it should state that it's now triggered instead of being open.
6. Testing Homing
1. Go to console and enter G28 x <- the printhead will go up a little and then to the right until it hits the X endstop.
2. Next G28 y <- the printhead will go up a little and then back until it hits the Y endstop
1. Go to console and run **G28 x** command <- the printhead will go up a little and then to the right until it hits the X endstop.
2. Next run **G28 y** command <- the printhead will go up a little and then back until it hits the Y endstop
3. Shut down your printer. Without moving the print head lower the gantry to bed level.
1. Measure from the back of the bed to the centre of the print nozzel
2. The centre of the Z endstop pin needs to be that far back from the bed.
1. You can now fully tighten down the Z endstop.
3. The bed needs to be moved back, so that it is 2-3mm from the closest edge of the Z endstop pin.
1. Loosen bed screws for easy moving. Tighten only screw near the Z-endstop after that.
3. The bed needs to be moved back, so that it is ***2-3mm*** from the closest edge of the Z endstop pin.
1. Loosen bed screws for easy moving. Tighten ***only*** screw near the Z-endstop after that.
4. Align the print nozzle with the Z endstop on the X axis, then move the print head to the center on the Y axis.
4. Power up your printer and send a G28 y command
4. Power up your printer and send a **G28 y** command
1. Without changing X or Y lower the gantry, until the nozzle touches the Z endstop, the nozzle should be in the centre of the pin
1. Z endstop should be higher than the bed
5. Testing the 0,0 location
1. Move the print head close but not touching to the bed, in centre.
2. Send G28 x y to put the print head in the back right corner.
2. Run **G28 x y** command to put the print head in the back right corner.
3. Using Controls from UI, move the print head close to the front left corner
4. Once you are close, send command M114, it will show your position
4. Once you are close, run **M114**, it will show your position
5. Move the ammounts needed to be at 0,0
1. You should be on the corner of the bed. It is probably a good idea it rather be in a small amount, you can change it in tuning should you feel the need for it.
6. Finding the X, Y of the Z endstop
1. Start with G28 x y
1. Start with **G28 x y** command
2. Using Controls from UI , move the print head over until it lines up with the Z endstop.
3. Using M114 command we get X and Y coordinates
3. Run **M114** command so we get X and Y coordinates
4. Save the result of those coordinates to Notepad
5. Open up printer.cfg, search for safe_z_home, on line 393 you should see coordinates. Adjust them to the previous step results.
6. Save and apply configuration
7. After new conf is loaded, run G28 x y z
7. After new conf is loaded, run **G28 x y z**
7. Testing probe accuracy
1. Run command PROBE_ACCURACY <- The probe will go close down to bed 10 times. From results you are looking for standard deviation of less than 0.003mm.
1. Run **PROBE_ACCURACY** command <- The probe will go close down to bed 10 times. From results you are looking for standard deviation of less than 0.003mm.
Thats it for testing, next up, tuning.
### Next: [Tuning the printer](../Tuning/Readme.md)
---
### Back: [Manuals](../Readme.md)

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Manuals/Tuning/Readme.md
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# Tuning the printer
1. PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=100
1. **PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=100**
1. This will take ~10min
2. Once this is done, use SAVE_CONFIG
2. Enter M106 S64 <- this will turn on the part cooling fan at 25%
3. Enter PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=245
1. Once this is done, use SAVE_CONFIG
2. Once this is done, use **SAVE_CONFIG**
2. Run **M106 S64** command <- this will turn on the part cooling fan at 25%
3. Run **PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=245** command
1. Once this is done, use **SAVE_CONFIG**
4. Next up take a ruler and try to get gantry as even as possible on both sides.
1. Make sure the nozzle will clear the bed
2. G28
2. Run **G28** command
3. Press QGL to start automatic leveling
1. The probe will measure distance in all four corners and adjust is each corner automatically until all corners are adjusted. It will try up to five times before giving up.
2. Tolerance allowed is 0.00750, if you did your assembly correctly, it should be no problem to beat.
2. Tolerance allowed is ***0.00750***, if you did your assembly correctly, it should be no problem to beat.
5. Extruder
1. Add bowden to the the toolhead
2. Try to extrude filament, configuration is already tuned for you
6. Z-Endstop calibration
1. Once the chamber has heated up (set extruder to 240, heat bed to 100)
2. Add a sheet of paper between the bed and toolhead
3. Run Z_ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE
1. Then run TESTZ Z=-1 untill the nozzle is close to the paper
2. If you go too far, run a TESTZ Z=1
3. Once you are close, switch to TESTZ Z=-0.1
3. Run **Z_ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE** command
1. Then run **TESTZ Z=-1** command until the nozzle is close to the paper
2. If you go too far, run **TESTZ Z=1** command
3. Once you are close, switch to **TESTZ Z=-0.1** command
4. Do this until you feel a drag on the paper when moving it
5. Remove the paper
6. Beacuse we did this hot, we need to do one more TESTZ Z=-0.1
7. ACCEPT
8. SAVE_CONFIG
6. Beacuse we did this hot, we need to run one more **TESTZ Z=-0.1** command
7. Run **ACCEPT** command
8. Run **SAVE_CONFIG** command
9. The nozzle bed offset is done for now.
7. Tighten ***all*** the screws while cabin is still hot.
Thats it for tuning. You should be now ready for your first print. If you had any issues along the way, you can take a look at [very detailed tuning guide](https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide) by AndrewEllis93.
For configuring MainsailOS from SSH, ener SUDO raspi-config. From there you can join your device to WiFi should you choose to do so.
Don't have an idea what to print? Try printing a [cube](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5429894) and filming it for [serial request](https://www.reddit.com/r/voroncorexy/). Please read about the process in [this serial request information questions reddit thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/voroncorexy/comments/r4ggml/serial_request_information_questions/).
> **PS:** For configuring MainsailOS from SSH, enter **SUDO raspi-config**. From there you can join your device to WiFi should you choose to do so and change local network domain name.
---
### Back: [Manuals](../Readme.md)