Updates manual

Door_Hinges/Readme.md

@@ -0,0 +1,80 @@
+# Voron 2.4 Hinge Mod for 3mm Doors with 3mm Foam
+This is designed for 3mm door panels with 3mm of foam. I used the laser cut panels from [Printed Solid](https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/voron-collection/products/voron-v2-clear-acrylic-sheets-for-sides) which are 3.175 (1/8") and the foam tape from [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QYGN3C1). They are design to fit Misumi extrusions. If the width of your extrusion is not the same, you can adjust the part that goes into the extrusion.
+
+Make sure the panels you use are cut to specifications. 0.5mm too large on each panel can cause issues. Also, make sure you flow rate is dialed in. There isn't much room in the design for overextrusion.
+
+The M3x40mm bolt used as a pin is designed to fit tight in the hinge. It will pivot when the door is opened/closed so don't tighten it too far in the insert below. You will need to thread the bolt in the top part of the hinge and when your bolt hits the non-threaded part (assuming your bolts are not 100% threaded) you will need to pursuade it thru the hinge pivot block. Once thru, I would back it out and go back in a couple times.
+
+If you are over extruding, you will have difficulty getting the bolt into the hinge. Feel free to use the step file to open the hole up if you need to. I did not want any play in the hinge.
+
+I recommend drilling the holes in the panel with a 4mm or 5/32" bit made for acrylic. If you do not have an acrylic bit available, please find some guides and/or watch some videos on how to successfully drill your panel. If you have scrap arcylic, please try it first. Having a hole a little larger than the bolt will provide some "wiggle" room. You can loosen the bolt, move the panel a little and tighen back up. The edge of the panel might catch on the bolt that goes into the extrusion, so some filing may be needed. (See Photo 1/2)
+
+The backplate on the hinge helps spread the load and prevents cracking of the panels. You do not need to use them if you have shorter bolts and don't want to use them. I would, however, recommend using them. The handles do not have backplates. As long as you do not overtighten them, they should be fine. Use some button heads if you can. I didn't have any, and found socket heads work just as well.
+
+There is not much space behind the inserts on the hinge. Be careful and do not press them too deep. Press them "almost" in and then use something like a straight edge to press them flush. It is easy to dimple the front side, especially if you use too long of bolts. (See Image 4 below).
+
+Final note: The pivot has a little "ear" that overhangs the other side of the extrusion. This is ensure the pivot is solid and fits square against the extrusion. It does mean that that you will not have foam on that part. (See Photo 2)
+
+Handles
+|item       | qty |
+|------|------|
+|M3x6 BHCS  | x8 |
+|M3 inserts | x8 |
+
+Hinges
+|item       | qty |
+|------|------|
+|M3x40		| x4 (hinge "pin") |
+|M3x12 SHCS	| x4 attaches pivot to frame |
+|M3x10 BHCS | x8 attaches hinge to door panel |
+|M3 inserts | x12 |
+
+Image 1:
+
+![Image 1](Images/image_1.png?raw=true "Image 1")
+
+Image 2:
+
+![Image 2](Images/image_2.png?raw=true "Image 2")
+
+Image 3:
+
+![Image 3](Images/image_3.png?raw=true "Image 3")
+
+Image 4:
+
+![Image 4](Images/image_4.png?raw=true "Image 4")
+
+Photo 1:
+
+![Photo 1](Images/photo_1.jpg?raw=true "Photo 1")
+
+Photo 2:
+
+![Photo 2](Images/photo_2.jpg?raw=true "Photo 2")
+
+Photo 3:
+
+![Photo 3](Images/photo_3.jpg?raw=true "Photo 3")
+
+Photo 4:
+
+![Photo 4](Images/photo_4.jpg?raw=true "Photo 4")
+
+Photo 5:
+
+![Photo 5](Images/photo_5.jpg?raw=true "Photo 5")
+
+Photo 6:
+
+![Photo 6](Images/photo_6.jpg?raw=true "Photo 6")
+
+Photo 7:
+
+![Photo 7](Images/photo_7.jpg?raw=true "Photo 7")
+
+---
+### Back: [Voron V2.4R2 kit by Lecktor](../Readme.md)
+
+# Sources:
+[randell Door Hinges Github](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/randell/Door_Hinges)

Manuals/Readme.md

@@ -1,11 +1,13 @@
-## Manual for V2.4R2 kit by Lecktor
+# Manual for V2.4R2 kit by Lecktor
 
 First up, assembly. We have produced modified Manual that should make assembly easy. Please read the manual through the first time before starting your assembly as it will make understanding the relations between objects much more easier. All heat inserts are done so those steps are for you to just verify that all of them are inserted. Should there be any missing, you have tooltip and inserts to add finishing touches.
 
 * [Assembly Manual Voron V2.4R2 Lecktor Kit](AssemblyManual.pdf)
 
+## Choosing Fluidd vs Mainsail
 You should keep always your devices behind VPN for additional security. That being said, Fluidd supports user accounts while MainsailOS is wide open in your home network. Both are amazing lightweight tools to handle your Voron and since they are simple frontends for configuration, you can easily swap between them.
 
+## Dive into manuals
 * [MainsailOS Installation](./OperatingSoftware/MainsailOs.md) / [Fuidd Installation](./OperatingSoftware/Fluidd.md)
   * [Slicer Configuration Files](./Slicer)
 * [Fysetc Spider V2.2 Firmware Image, Flash](./MCU_Firmware/Readme.md)
@@ -13,6 +15,7 @@ You should keep always your devices behind VPN for additional security. That bei
 * [Testing Configuration](./Testing/Readme.md)
 * [Tuning the printer](./Tuning/Readme.md)
 
+## Visual guidance
 If you want to see how assembly of a Voron would look like, step-by-step, there is a great fella on YouTube named [Scott Corn](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHWiCs52pK4&list=PLSdS8RXoNhoRzDMZr9bK9-mfZjJzyWP8E) who has made a series from assembly of Voron V2.4. Your kit is V2.4R2 with some extra goodies so gatry and toolhead will be different for you. 
 
 ---

Manuals/Tuning/Readme.md

@@ -5,16 +5,17 @@
 2. Run **M106 S64** command <- this will turn on the part cooling fan at 25%
 3. Run **PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=245** command
    1. Once this is done, use **SAVE_CONFIG**
-4. Next up take a ruler and try to get gantry as even as possible on both sides.
+4. When cabin is hot, tighten ***all*** the screws. If you tighten the screws later, you need to do calibration again.
+5. Next up take a ruler and try to get gantry as even as possible on both sides.
    1. Make sure the nozzle will clear the bed
    2. Run **G28** command
    3. Press QGL to start automatic leveling
       1. The probe will measure distance in all four corners and adjust is each corner automatically until all corners are adjusted. It will try up to five times before giving up.
       2. Tolerance allowed is ***0.00750***, if you did your assembly correctly, it should be no problem to beat.
-5. Extruder
+6. Extruder
    1. Add bowden to the the toolhead
    2. Try to extrude filament, configuration is already tuned for you
-6. Z-Endstop calibration
+7. Z-Endstop calibration
    1. Once the chamber has heated up (set extruder to 240, heat bed to 100)
    2. Add a sheet of paper between the bed and toolhead
    3. Run **Z_ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE** command
@@ -27,7 +28,6 @@
       7. Run **ACCEPT** command
       8. Run **SAVE_CONFIG** command
       9. The nozzle bed offset is done for now.
-7.  Tighten ***all*** the screws while cabin is still hot.
 
 Thats it for tuning. You should be now ready for your first print. If you had any issues along the way, you can take a look at [very detailed tuning guide](https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide) by AndrewEllis93. You can also find some helpful tuning print files [here](../Test_Prints/).
 

Microswitch_Endstop/Readme.md

@@ -0,0 +1,14 @@
+# Voron 2.4 XY Microswitch Endstop for PCB
+POD for use with the Microswitch endstop pcb board for X and Y axes.
+
+Check [Microswitch_Endstop](https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Hardware/tree/master/Microswitch_Endstop) for the microswitch pcb.
+
+![Installed](Images/picture2.jpg?raw=true "Installed")
+![Mounted 1](Images/picture1.jpg?raw=true "Mounted 2")
+![Mounted 2](Images/picture3.jpg?raw=true "Mounted 3")
+
+---
+### Back: [Voron V2.4R2 kit by Lecktor](../Readme.md)
+
+# Sources:
+[randell Mircoswitch Endstop Github](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/randell/Microswitch_Endstop)

NeverMore/Readme.md

@@ -0,0 +1,232 @@
+# Nevermore Activated Carbon Filters - Micro Edition
+
+<div align="center">Nevermore Micro V5 Duo (dual fan)</div>
+
+![Nevermore Activated Carbon Filter Micro V5 Duo](images/DUO_COMBINED_render.png "Nevermore Activated Carbon Filter Micro V5 Duo")
+
+Originally intended as a carbon fume filter for Voron V2, it has found its way into a multitude of other machines. Let yours be the next! Bad smells or fumes, or complaints thereof, should not keep you from being a maker!
+
+- [Nevermore Activated Carbon Filters - Micro Edition](#nevermore-activated-carbon-filters---micro-edition)
+- [About The Nevermore Micro](#about-the-nevermore-micro)
+  - [Why The Nevermore?](#why-the-nevermore)
+  - [Nevermore Background](#nevermore-background)
+  - [Nevermore V5 Duo](#nevermore-v5-duo)
+- [FAQs](#faqs)
+  - [What fans should I use?](#what-fans-should-i-use)
+  - [How do I make a suggestion/report a bug/find out more?](#how-do-i-make-a-suggestionreport-a-bugfind-out-more)
+- [Getting Started](#getting-started)
+  - [SOURCING THE PROPER ACID-FREE CARBON](#sourcing-the-proper-acid-free-carbon)
+  - [NEVERMORE 3D PRINTER CARBON](#nevermore-3d-printer-carbon)
+  - [BOM (V5)](#bom-v5)
+  - [Assembly](#assembly)
+    - [Instructions for V5](#instructions-for-v5)
+    - [Instructions for V4](#instructions-for-v4)
+  - [Final Thoughts on Usage](#final-thoughts-on-usage)
+    - [Back: Voron V2.4R2 kit by Lecktor](#back-voron-v24r2-kit-by-lecktor)
+- [Sources:](#sources)
+
+# About The Nevermore Micro
+
+[VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volatile_organic_compound) are common in daily life but VOCs generated from 3D printing are known to cause severe health issues and even cause cancer in some cases.
+
+![Emitted VOCs](images/emitted-voc.jpg "Emitted VOCs")
+
+A study from 2013 of [ultrafine particle emissions from desktop 3D printers (2013)](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1352231013005086) is a good start to understand the importance of your filament choices and the printer's environment.
+
+![Characterization of volatile organic compound emissions from consumer level material extrusion 3D printers (2019)](images/emitted-voc2.jpg "Characterization of volatile organic compound emissions from consumer level material extrusion 3D printers (2019)")
+_(credit: [Characterization of volatile organic compound emissions from consumer level material extrusion 3D printers (2019)](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0360132319304196))_
+
+![Characterization of particulate and gaseous pollutants emitted during operation of a desktop 3D printer (2019)](images/emitted-voc3.jpg "Characterization of particulate and gaseous pollutants emitted during operation of a desktop 3D printer (2019)")
+_(credit: [Characterization of particulate and gaseous pollutants emitted during operation of a desktop 3D printer (2019)](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0160412018323663))_
+
+## Why The Nevermore?
+
+At the end of the day, a fresh single-pass filtered exhaust (at brand new) has perhaps 70% VOC removal efficiency while still exhausting 30% of the nasty. A worn-in 50% efficiency recirculation filter achieving four passes would still remove 94% of the bad stuff. Or 99% at six passes!
+
+The number of passes you get all depends on how well you can seal your build chamber.
+
+Some will have a hard time achieving a good chamber seal, which creates the biggest drawback of recirculation filters - _they're air flow neutral_. Meaning, as nothing pulls air into the chamber, air can diffuse freely to the outside through any remaining gaps. And that air could be _zero-per-cent_ cleaned...
+
+If you plan on using only a Nevermore - be sure to seal your chamber as good as possible to prevent diffusing.
+
+## Nevermore Background
+
+There are many options for 3d printing air filters. Here’s a short list, and why I eventually settled on creating Nevermore:
+
+**1. Home air purifiers**
+
+**PRO:** Plug and play! High air flow (mostly). Will filter most particles a 3d printer produces.
+
+**CON:** ABS headaches are not from particles, but Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs), that are two orders of magnitude smaller than any particles a HEPA or ULPA could trap - they’re essentially gasses.
+
+While home purifiers typically also contains carbon filtration and/or photocatlytic UV filtration stages, they will still not be suitable for 3d printing. Why? Efficient carbon adsorption in sufficient amount and stages is an absolute airflow killer, so most purifiers contain only a thin layer of carbon mesh/pellets that will be fully adsorbed within days or weeks at full power. And even if the filter is not used, contact with air saturates the carbon in 1-2 months. Yet they’re advertised as lasting for 6 months – that's only true for the HEPA component, not the VOC adsorbant carbon we're after.
+
+And replacement filters typically run 20-60 USD a pop. Quite a lot for changing every few weeks when the carbon component depletes.
+
+UV photocatalyst activity can last though; however, breakdown is slow and inefficient with voc halflives of several hours. The TiO2 layer reacting to the UV will also easily get irreversibly blocked by silicates (of which there are a lot in peoples homes, in everything from sink and bathroom sealants to plaster walls). And breakdown will many times be incomplete. Styrene passing a PCO filter might get turned to even more dangerous benzene, for instance.
+
+**2. Carbon/HEPA filter combinations like the Zortrax M Series HEPA Filters**
+
+Same as above. The HEPA component will keep working, but the carbon is just a few pebbles per hex. It could provide partial VOC clearance when fresh, but will quickly deplete with air flow. Then you need to replace it for 36 USD after a week of printing.
+
+**3. Wet scrubber**
+
+Awesome for both particles and VOCs, but its an industrial solution with any smaller home versions plagued by loud noise, water leakage and mechanical issues. It's not a solution for the masses.
+
+**So, how about Nevermore?**
+
+Well, the carbon in those filters mentioned above, costing a lot for little duration is actually dirt cheap. Whereas you get 20 grams for 36 USD with a zortax filter, **you can get 5000 grams for 36 USD in bulk**.
+
+And with an enclosed chamber, you don't need the air flow of a room-size air purifier. Even a 350mm V2 Voron only holds about 5cf, meaning even a partial flow from a 5015 fan of 0.5-2cfm is enough to filter the fumes efficiently at the source.
+
+So what are we waiting for? We got lots of cheap carbon. We can replace is easily. We don't need high airflow to clean a small chamber. We deal with poor efficiency of one-pass carbon filters by multiplying the amount and recirculate the air.
+
+Enter, _The Nevermore_.
+
+## Nevermore V5 Duo
+
+Following the V4, the V5 Duo was released that changes the direction of air flow, better suited for when the Nevermore Micro would be placed flat on the bottom or top of the printer. Though there are other "outlet" options, like for the V1.8/Trident style that blows outwards and not up.
+
+The V5 Duo also adds a 2nd additional 5015.
+
+![Nevermore Micro V5 Duo](images/nevermore-micro-duo.jpg "Nevermore Micro V5 Duo")
+
+![Nevermore Micro V5 Duo](images/nevermore-micro-duo-opened.jpg "Nevermore Micro V5 Duo")
+
+_(Nevermore V5 Duo. used with permission from Tightwad(JT)#6055)_
+
+This repository hosts both versions, as they the same in design and function.
+
+# FAQs
+## What fans should I use?
+
+Aim for any 5015 blower with a rating above 200Pa / 20mmH2O / 1 inH2O.
+
+Since the fan (probably) cant be reused for other projects and will function in a high temp environment affecting its lifetime, go for budget. The Sunon Maglev MF50151VX (12V) / MF50152VX (24V) (high speed version, 6000 rpm) is good but unfortunately almost impossible to find as most are fakes. The GDStime 6000rpm Dual Ball bearing is another good option, but quality may vary. The Delta BFB0524HH is a gucci option, as is the special micro versions made for the papst rlf-35 which is an equally awesome and expensive fan. Any fan that works well for stealthburner should be a good option for nevermore micro as well.
+
+See the BOM below for more details.
+
+## How do I make a suggestion/report a bug/find out more?
+
+- [The Nevermore Micro](https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro)
+  - [Report a Bug](https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro/issues)
+  - [Request a Feature](https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro/issues)
+- [Explore all Nevermore Activated Carbon Filters](https://github.com/nevermore3d)
+
+# Getting Started
+
+You're ready to build a Nevermore Micro? Cool!
+
+> **_NOTE:_** MADE FOR ABS/PC/PETG - USE A DECENTLY HEAT RESISTANT FILAMENT !!
+
+> **_NOTE:_**: Since you are committing to fan dissection, be aware a 5015 used for a NM Micro will most likely never find a different purpose!
+
+## SOURCING THE PROPER ACID-FREE CARBON
+
+**IMPORTANT!** Since first release the varying quality carbon out there has become increasingly evident. Users has both gotten bad carbon as well as outright dangerous stuff (in one case oxidizing most metal surfaces in a new voron in minutes. Be sure to vet your carbon supplier! You do not want your printer to look like this.
+
+![Acid residue on end-stop switch oxidizing](images/endstop-switch-acid-residue.jpg "Acid residue on end-stop switch oxidizing")
+
+_(z end-stop switch after using acid residue carbon for 30 minutes, oxidizing)_
+
+![Acid residue on rails and screws oxidizing](images/voron2-oxidation1.png "Acid residue on rails and screws oxidizing")
+
+_(oxidation on rails and screws after using acid residue carbon. used with permission from Zeptron#8880)_
+
+![Acid residue on filament tension spring oxidizing](images/voron2-oxidation2.png "Acid residue on filament tension spring oxidizing")
+
+_(oxidation on filament tension spring after using acid residue carbon. used with permission from Zeptron#8880)_
+
+![Acid residue on bolts and washers oxidizing](images/voron2-oxidation3.png "Acid residue on bolts and washers oxidizing")
+
+_(oxidation on bolts and washers after using acid residue carbon. used with permission from Zeptron#8880)_
+
+Optimal carbon for 3D printer VOC adsorption is sourced from **virgin coconut**, not wood/bitumen/charcoal/bamboo/lignin/etc. The porosity for each and every source will vary greatly.
+
+For example, for aquarium or moonshine use you want large macroporosity to filter larger impurities, like oils. For that reason, water/liquid-use carbon has a large macropore area, defined as >100nm. 3D Printer VOCs are generally less than 0.5 nm, meaning that **for optimal capture rate and efficiency we want carbon with a high microporosity ratio, defined as <1nm**. A higher iodine count >1000 usually indicates at least some micro/mesoporosity, and a higher hardness (>95%) will create less dust in air filtration. CTC number doesn't translate well to our VOCs; however, toluene adsorption - which sometimes is available - is a good metric.
+
+**Avoid acid washed carbon at all costs**. Residues have oxidized printers! Go for steam activated, non acid-washed. A blend of neutral carbon and alkaline KOH carbon might be the best blend in the future, but impossible to currently source from trustworthy manufacturers.
+
+Finding carbon that fills all criteria is hard. Look around, ask suppliers about the carbon, hear what others recommend. 
+
+## NEVERMORE 3D PRINTER CARBON
+**Nevermore offers its own premium carbon of unmatched specifications through selected voron resellers.** Its the best activated carbon for 3D printer use we have found after speaking to most major, vetted suppliers, offering benzene adsorbtion of up to 48 wt%, surface area of 1250 and CTC value of 80. It doesn't come cheap compared to bulk carbon from amazon, but its safe, has unbeatable performance, and every purchase supports the nevermore project by at least a dollar, see [Lecktor listing](https://lecktor.com/en/nevermore/870-nevermore-carbon.html)
+
+## BOM (V5)
+
+- 2x 5015 blowers (rating above 200Pa / 20mmH2O / 1 inH2O)
+  - Sunon Maglev MF5015VX (high speed version, 6000 rpm. NOTE: There are A LOT of fake sunons out there, even from usually reputable sources. Blantant examples include 24V versions. Also, Sunon does not officially reecommend PWM:ing this fan, so while its still perfectly doable it can have unintended consequences later on) (There is no 24V version for this fan only comes in 12 V)
+  - GDStime 6000rpm Dual Ball bearing on Aliexpress (This is 12V rated fans)
+  - Delta BFB0524HH (This is 24V rated fans)
+  - Avoid mechatronics fans for this purpose.
+- 5x M3x0.5mm Heatset inserts (standard voron issue)
+  - 2 for seating plenum to base
+  - 2 for seating plenum lid to plenum
+- 8x 6x3mm cylindrical magnets
+- 1x 2 pin JST header
+- 4x M3x16 BHCS
+  - for heat inserts that go into the four fan tabs
+- 1x M3x18 BHCS
+  - ONLY for delta and v1.8 variants
+- 1x M3x6 BHCS
+- 1x M3x4 BHCS
+  - for the extra hole in the plenum@lid for symmetry (it doesn’t attach to anything and is totally optional)
+
+Acid-free Activated Carbon
+
+- 4mm Active Carbon Air Filter Pellets
+
+Optional for the cartridge closure
+
+- 1x M3x0.5mm Heatset inserts
+- 1x M3x6 BHCS
+
+Optional for Vorons or any printer with 2020 extrusions
+
+- 2x M3x12 SHCS
+- 2x M3 2020 T-Nuts
+
+Optional for Vorons or any printer using 24PSU
+- 24 to 12 buck converter
+
+## Assembly
+
+Check out assembly images (**take note at how the fans are cut!**) here: [Nevermore V5 Plenum Assembly Album](https://ibb.co/album/0BN405?sort=name_asc&page=1&params_hidden%5Blist%5D=images&params_hidden%5Bfrom%5D=album&params_hidden%5Balbumid%5D=0BN405)
+
+### Instructions for V5
+
+_Coming soon... Similar to V4 though._
+
+### Instructions for V4
+
+Start by cutting up the 5015 so just the center remains. Take off the top half, cut the bottom piece circular along the fan blades. We aim for removing the focused air stream and instead achieve an even pressure across all of the filter medium.
+
+The Nevermore Micro has three main parts: **Base**, **Plenum**, and **Cartridge** (plus lids for the plenum/cartridge).
+
+- **Base** is mounted in the 130mm space between the bottom extrusions found on many vorons (designed for v2 originally). It’s seated with one m3 on each side, that screws into to a receiving 2020 M3 T-nut.
+
+- **Plenum** holds the cut up 5015 fan, and is seated with two m3 screws into the base (base has two recieving m3 4mm heat inserts) on each side.
+
+- **Cartridge** holds the filter medium of your choice (made for 4mm air filter active carbon pellets, but feel free to filter with what you think works best!). It snaps onto the Plenum piece for easy and quick removal.
+
+For wiring, you are free to connect however works with your printer. If you do not have any direct controls on your MCU (controller board), then directly wiring may be your only option (with an inline switch).
+
+However, if your MCU does have an additional fan output, then it is recommended to connect to it. If you are using Klipper on a Raspberry Pi, you have the option of using PWM fans and connecting the control wire to one of your PWM outputs on the RPi 40-pin header.
+
+## Final Thoughts on Usage
+
+**PID tune AGAIN if a Nevermore Micro is installed right beneath a heated bed, or draws/exhausts air over the bed thermistor. This is important, as worst case it could cause the bed to overheat, and/or make the heater adhesive burn (this will smell worse than any ABS printing!), and/or possibly even damage the bed heater.**
+
+The Nevermore Micro's activated carbon will not filter Ultra-Fine Particulates (UFP). This is what the HEPA filter does in the Nevermore Mini (not released yet) and [Nevermore Max](https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Max) variants. Those also have built-in negative-pressure fans.
+
+However, you can achieve the same results with the Nevermore Micro by using a HEPA filter of your own and creating slightly negative air-pressure within your build chamber, exhausting air outwards at a slow pace. Since you are filtering with the Nevermore, the vast majority of VOCs will be filters by the active carbon filtration, leaving the HEPA filter to capture the remaining UFPs. This also greatly extends the live of your HEPA filter as the Nevermore Micro will be accumulating the larger particulates.
+
+To create a negative pressure within your build chamber, simply install a fan to slowly draw air out of your build chamber and our through a HEPA filter. Voron machines already have such a design with their rear exhaust housing for HEPA filters.
+
+The negative pressure will also eliminate diffusion, especially if your build chamber is not completely sealed.
+
+---
+### Back: [Voron V2.4R2 kit by Lecktor](../Readme.md)
+
+# Sources:
+[Nevermore Github](https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro)

Panels/Readme.md

@@ -0,0 +1 @@
+# Voron V2.4 Panels 

README.md

@@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
 # Voron-V2.4R2 Kit by Lecktor
 
 Lecktor.com sells full solution kit. To get a better understanding, please
-take a look at our [manuals](./Manuals/Readme.md). For whats included in kit and why, take a look at mods like [NeverMore](./NeverMore/Readme.md), [EuclidProbe](./EuclidProbe/Readme.md), [Backers](./Backers/Readme.md) and other folders for more information. 
+take a look at our [manuals](./Manuals/Readme.md). For whats included in kit and why, take a look at mods like [NeverMore](./NeverMore/Readme.md), [EuclidProbe](./EuclidProbe/Readme.md), [Titanium Backers](./Backers/Readme.md) and other folders for more information. 
 
 # Full BOM of kit
 ## Frame kit
@@ -10,6 +10,7 @@ take a look at our [manuals](./Manuals/Readme.md). For whats included in kit and
 ## Motor kit
 - LDO Motors LDO-42STH48-2004AC (Z motor) - 4pcs
 - LDO Motors LDO-42STH48-2004MAH (AB motor) - 2pcs
+- LDO Motors LDO-36STH20-1004AHG (E motor) - 1pcs
 
 ## Linear rail kit
 ### Voron V2.4 250x250
@@ -118,9 +119,8 @@ take a look at our [manuals](./Manuals/Readme.md). For whats included in kit and
 - Bondtech shaft assembly - 1pcs
 - Bondtech thumbscrew assembly - 1pcs
 - RainDew ball bearing MR85ZZ - 2pcs
-- LDO Motors pancake motor (LDO-36STH20-1004AHG) - 1pcs
 - GDSTime axial fan (4010; 24V) - 1pcs
-- Lecktor blower fan (5015; 24V) - 1pcs
+- Delta Electronics blower fan (5015; 24V) - 1pcs
 - Lecktor toolhead front (Dragon/CW2/Nylon/MJF; black) - 1pcs
 - Lecktor toolhead rear (Dragon/CW2/Nylon/MJF; black) - 1pcs
 
@@ -150,6 +150,8 @@ take a look at our [manuals](./Manuals/Readme.md). For whats included in kit and
 - FIX&FASTEN cable tie (Polyamide; 2.5x150mm; black) - 100pcs
 - Misumi HNTAJ5-3 nut - 10pcs
 - Misumi HNTAJ5-5 nut - 10pcs
+- Cable duct for rails - 4pcs
+- Cable sleeves for bottom - 3pcs
 
 ## LED mounts
 - BTF-Lightning SK6812 led strip (250-350mm) - 3pcs
@@ -178,8 +180,8 @@ take a look at our [manuals](./Manuals/Readme.md). For whats included in kit and
 
 ## Euclid probe assembly
 - Lecktor Euclid PCB assembly - 1pcs
-- Lecktor Euclid wire harness (Heluflon; JST) - 1pcs
-- Lecktor Euclid plastic parts (ABS GF; black) - 1pcs
+~~- Lecktor Euclid wire harness (Heluflon; JST) - 1pcs~~
+~~- Lecktor Euclid plastic parts (ABS GF; black) - 1pcs~~
 
 ## Voron V2.4R2 plastic parts
 - Main functional parts (eSun ABS+; black) - 1pcs

Readme.md

@@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
 # Voron-V2.4R2 Kit by Lecktor
 
 Lecktor.com sells full solution kit. To get a better understanding, please
-take a look at our [manuals](./Manuals/Readme.md). For whats included in kit and why, take a look at mods like [NeverMore](./NeverMore/Readme.md), [EuclidProbe](./EuclidProbe/Readme.md), [Backers](./Backers/Readme.md) and other folders for more information. 
+take a look at our [manuals](./Manuals/Readme.md). For whats included in kit and why, take a look at mods like [NeverMore](./NeverMore/Readme.md), [EuclidProbe](./EuclidProbe/Readme.md), [Titanium Backers](./Backers/Readme.md) and other folders for more information. 
 
 # Full BOM of kit
 ## Frame kit
@@ -10,6 +10,7 @@ take a look at our [manuals](./Manuals/Readme.md). For whats included in kit and
 ## Motor kit
 - LDO Motors LDO-42STH48-2004AC (Z motor) - 4pcs
 - LDO Motors LDO-42STH48-2004MAH (AB motor) - 2pcs
+- LDO Motors LDO-36STH20-1004AHG (E motor) - 1pcs
 
 ## Linear rail kit
 ### Voron V2.4 250x250
@@ -118,9 +119,8 @@ take a look at our [manuals](./Manuals/Readme.md). For whats included in kit and
 - Bondtech shaft assembly - 1pcs
 - Bondtech thumbscrew assembly - 1pcs
 - RainDew ball bearing MR85ZZ - 2pcs
-- LDO Motors pancake motor (LDO-36STH20-1004AHG) - 1pcs
 - GDSTime axial fan (4010; 24V) - 1pcs
-- Lecktor blower fan (5015; 24V) - 1pcs
+- Delta Electronics blower fan (5015; 24V) - 1pcs
 - Lecktor toolhead front (Dragon/CW2/Nylon/MJF; black) - 1pcs
 - Lecktor toolhead rear (Dragon/CW2/Nylon/MJF; black) - 1pcs
 
@@ -150,6 +150,8 @@ take a look at our [manuals](./Manuals/Readme.md). For whats included in kit and
 - FIX&FASTEN cable tie (Polyamide; 2.5x150mm; black) - 100pcs
 - Misumi HNTAJ5-3 nut - 10pcs
 - Misumi HNTAJ5-5 nut - 10pcs
+- Cable duct for rails - 4pcs
+- Cable sleeves for bottom - 3pcs
 
 ## LED mounts
 - BTF-Lightning SK6812 led strip (250-350mm) - 3pcs
@@ -178,8 +180,8 @@ take a look at our [manuals](./Manuals/Readme.md). For whats included in kit and
 
 ## Euclid probe assembly
 - Lecktor Euclid PCB assembly - 1pcs
-- Lecktor Euclid wire harness (Heluflon; JST) - 1pcs
-- Lecktor Euclid plastic parts (ABS GF; black) - 1pcs
+~~- Lecktor Euclid wire harness (Heluflon; JST) - 1pcs~~
+~~- Lecktor Euclid plastic parts (ABS GF; black) - 1pcs~~
 
 ## Voron V2.4R2 plastic parts
 - Main functional parts (eSun ABS+; black) - 1pcs